Lesser known Monuments and Relics in the Walled City

When we think of Old Delhi monuments. We think of the Red Fort and Jama Masjid. However there are so many monuments in this densely packed area originalled called Shahjanabad. It was later called the `Walled City' because Shah Jahan had built a wall and 14 gates around it. Some of the monuments in the Walled City have survived the rages of time, encoachment and general neglect. Some of them resonate with their past prestige but most of them are sad ruins fallen to neglect and apathy.

Anglo Arabic School, Ajmeri Gate - also called Ghaziuddin Madrasa was established by Ghaziuddin a genera of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1702. IT was declared a heritage monument by the ASI in 2002. Anglo Arabic School had many names-Anglo Arabic College, Delhi College and Zakir Hussain College. Zakir Hussain college was shifted from here but a wing in the building still houses a boy's hostel for Zakir Hussain. Until 1827 this building functioned as a madrasa.

Entrance of Anglo Arabic School


One of the three arches at the entrance.


The building from Ajmeri Gate


Boys hostel of Zakir Hussain College-inside Anglo Arabic School

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Nawab Ghaziuddin Khan Masjid is a three domed structrue built with red kota stone. There was once a well and a tank connected to the mosque for wuzu (ablutions). There is also a mazaar (shrine) of a saint in the northern side of the mosque. The school suffered during the Sepoy Mutiny when the science laboratories and the library were burnt and along with that umpteen priceless manuscripts turned to ashes.

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Masjid Mubarak Begum- is a mosque made by an englishman for his mistress -Mubarak Begum. It is also crudely called `randi ki masjid'. I was made in 1800. It stands at Lal Kuan, at Hauz Kazi chowk among a tangle of electric cables and hoardings. It is now under the Waqf board. This mosque gotestablished on the upper floor at a latter date.

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Mirja Ghalib's Haveli- I have visited this haveli several times over the past one decade. Until a few years ago it was a place for storage of coals. After a lot of pressure from the literay world and the media it has been somewhat restored. Ghalib spent most of his life in this haveli writing some of his famous poems here. The havali is located in Gali Qasam Jaan in Ballimaran.

Ballimaran had many such historic havelis but they were neglected and finally encroached. It is said that Ballimaran had a canal running through its main street during the time of Shah Jehan. It was so deep that ballis (wooden poles) were used to measure its depth. That’s why the area was named Ballimaran. Another story is that a lot of billis (cats) where killed here.

Urdu couplets of Ghalib on the walls

Men having lunch at the Haveli

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Ajmeri Gate-is one of the 14 entrances to the walled city of Shahajahanabad. The city Shah Jahan built. It is so called because it faces Ajmer. During the 1857 mutiny a fierce battle was fought at this site. It is simple in design and made of locally available stone.



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Forgotten Monuments of Mehrauli

Its sad that very few know of Delhi's monuments and history that exists in Mehrauli. The whole areas has been taken up on one side by the glitterati-consisting of fashion designers and socialites and on the other by encroaches. Both of them have annexed huge portions of monuments and history to erect shapeless buildings.

Tomb of Adham Khan-The Great General of Akbar. Built by Akbar after Akbar killed him by pushing him from the palace balcony. Adham Khan was accused of a palace murder. Adham Khan was Akbar's wet nurse's son and a man he loved deeply. Adham's death greatly pained Akbar. He had his tomb built here in Mehrauli area for his rememberance

Adham Khan's Tomb in Mehrauli


A goat loiters at Adham Khan's Tomb


Shaft of light inside Adham Khan's Window

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Zafar Mahal was built by Bahadur Shah Zafar -II as his monsoon retreat in 1842. After the First Indian Mutiny Bahadur Shah powers of influence were limited to the Red Fort and its surrounding areas. He came to Zafar Mahal in the monsoons. Poets like Ghalib and many other men of letters and influence would come here to pay him a visit. Today Zafar mahal is a ruin. Its neglected. A place for the locals to play cards. For couples to fornicate. The drunk to lie aimlessly. And for those in the hurry to take a quick leak.

The ruins of Zafar Mahal- Mehrauli


Modern Mehrauli from Zafar Mahal


Inside Zafar Mahal


A woman cooks in a house next of Zafar Mahal


The entrance to the Zafar Mahal


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Moti Masjid-or the Pearl Mosque -was built by emperor Shah Alam in 1709. It is a three domed white marble mosque. The mosque is next to dargah of the Sufi saint Qutubuddin Bakhtiar Kaki. Next to the mosque is a set of graves screened off by a carved filigree of white marble. The graves are of Bahadurshah Zafar's relatives. There is also an empty grave - a vacant rectangular patch of earth. Bahadurshah had wished to be buried here, but after the Revolt of 1857, he was exiled to Burma and died in Rangoon, where he now lies buried.

Dome of Moti Masjid-Mehrauli



The three domed Moti Masjid-Mehrauli


Dargah of the Sufi saint Qutubuddin Bakhtiar Kaki


A tourist takes a snap of Moti Masjid